Aleksander Dragony: ‘A slight flavour of militarism in Crimea is annoying’

Crimea…

Stories of parents, the ancient Greeks, Crimean herbs, 'they say it is beautiful here', Artek, where I has never been, port wine, a popular vacation spot, Ukraine and the Soviet service, crimeaisours and the Soviet service. There are many different associations I have about the Peninsula. The main thing is that I was not there until September of this year.

Then suddenly — a job offer from an instructor on the boat. I wanted to see what Crimea is now, and especially with the sailing infrastructure, so I agreed.

My opinion on what I have seen is deformed by frequent trips, the work. I have no much time in Crimea, but the places I have seen are even less. Besides, for the first time (since I was 12) I have visited a resort within the country. So, it was very amazing for me.

The training format is as follows: I go sailing with the group of students along the coast for 10 days. Every day we work on exercises from the compulsory set

Let's go!

A new, nice airport. In the baggage claim area, there are no trucks and no board where you can see on what conveyor belt your luggage of your flight is. Yes, each belt has its own board with the flight numbers, but not a common one. The hall is small with just three or four belts.

In the same hall, there is a small cafe with the microscopic selection of food. But there is coffee – it is good. And there are a lot of men with the bellies and wearing the captain's caps. It is hot outside! When I departed, it was 15°C in Kazan, I think. But it is very hot there. Although two weeks ago I returned from a long trip in Italy, I still feel myself a 'white untanned monkey'.

The training format is as follows: I go sailing with the group of students along the coast for 10 days. Every day we work on exercises from the compulsory set. Navigation and positioning, maneuvering under sail and motor, the radio communication, crossover planning, the work with the team. All these people want to get a license and take a boat to rent. It is an international license, so we are talking about renting abroad. Most likely, in the Mediterranean Sea. Actually, here I compare Mediterranean resort and Crimea.

What does a yachtsman need? Sheltered staging posts, picturesque shores, picturesque towns where you can walk, cafes, where you can eat, and facilities at staging posts. As the experience of walking along Crimea has shown, you need the minimum of control. Rather, its absence. As it turned out, it is in abundance in Russia.

In those places, where there are no natural shelters for yachts of fishermen, there are harbours are being built. They are constructing the breakwaters from giant stones or on the bottom they are building walls that protect from waves and wind

Staging posts

We went over a smaller part of the Crimean coast. From Sevastopol to Partenit settlement (it's right around Ayu-Dag on east from the Artek), and then back. In this area, Sevastopol and Balaklava are protected from wing and weather. Other posts are open to wind and waves, including Yalta. In those places, where there are no natural shelters for yachts of fishermen, there are harbours are being built. They are constructing the breakwaters from giant stones or on the bottom they are building walls that protect from waves and wind. (Here, for example, a harbor on the photo).

Picturesqueness

Everything is relative. Tastes differ… Holland, much beloved by me, has a picturesqueness of the coasts close to zero, if you look at them from a distance of 5-7 kilometers (at this distance the shore is almost not observed). But that is entirely compensated by the flavor and all the other pros.

The green slopes of the southern coast of Crimea are spoiled by ugly modern buildings. According to non-existing nature scale (five-point one), the visual attractiveness of the coast of Crimea has a strong three.

Flavour

The local towns still have a Soviet flavour. A statue of Lenin, stalls, chaotic architecture. The eyes rest a bit among the old houses of Yalta and on the quiet streets of Sevastopol. At least there is the nostalgic feeling 'like in the childhood'. Two- or three-storey houses, old courtyards, linden and plane trees, one car per minute.

Amenities at staging posts

It is what, for example, Yalta lacks at all (see the photo of the pier). In Balaklava, this is similar to what can be found on the Mediterranean Sea. In Sevastopol, it is the same. Usually the yachtsmen need: electricity and water at the berth, toilet and shower, adequate staff of the marina. Well, and the staff not dressed as guards.

Generally, a slight flavour of militarism in Crimea is annoying. Elements of military clothing, patriotic posters, meaningless quotes of the President on the banners constantly remind that people here are not just people, but with a strong word and fist. Well, with the demonstration of that.

Usually the yachtsmen need: electricity and water at the berth, toilet and shower, adequate staff of the marina

Cafes

Everything is better than you would expect from the Russian resorts. The restaurateurs do the best, the waiters are often helpful, the food quite edible. As it is expected at a sea resort, the menu has seafood.

Control

What is annoying — the control and surveillance — let's call it that. In order to exit from any bay, any staging post, you must request a permission from the guards. Four hours in advance, at least. If you forget, you will have to postpone the exit. Of course, they almost always allow. Sometimes judging by the voice in the radio, it seems that the guards themselves are tired of this. But it doesn't get any easier.

The main pain for the yachtsmen — the closed areas. One of the biggest: from the Aya Cape to the Ay-Todor Cape. It's almost forty kilometres of coastline. Laspi, Foros, Simeiz. Part of this area is closed all the time. Along the perimeter of the closed area there are patrol ships. Although it seems these 'exercises' it is when someone 'majors' just come to pampers themselves in the dacha in Foros.

The green slopes of the southern coast of Crimea are spoiled by ugly modern buildings

So, instead of six hours from Balaklava to Yalta you have to spend eight because of the need to make a detour and go first into the sea, and then return. Six or eight is a big difference during a cruise.

The situation may slightly change. The moving of the discussion in the public field make the officials to consider how the closure is justified. Maybe the desire to do on the Crimean coast 'as normal people do' will outweigh our eternal 'to prohibit and not allow.'